Pan, Techo y Fuego

Kostroma, Russia · 1898

Why Did Russians Sleep on Top of the Stove? A Winter in 1898

October 25, 2026 · 14 min · Audio in Spanish, English

Northern Kostroma province, winter 1898: one room for the whole family and, in a corner, a huge block of clay with no chimney. We spend the winter in a peasant izba to find out why Russians slept on top of the stove.

Smoke drifting out through a hole in the roof, pots kept hot in the oven until supper, a calf by the door, washing and sweating inside the oven, and who slept on the stove, on the polati (a platform under the ceiling) and on the golbets (a wooden box built against the stove). A village teacher wrote it all down in the late 1890s; he even copied into his notebook the logging contracts signed in the late summer and autumn of 1898 for that winter.

Chapters

  1. 0:00The house of warm clay
  2. 0:40The teacher's notebooks
  3. 1:16Forest country
  4. 2:03A single room
  5. 2:46A block of clay
  6. 3:16Living inside the smoke
  7. 4:02Before dawn
  8. 4:48Pots into the oven
  9. 5:30The Christmas fast
  10. 6:03Those who stay home
  11. 6:41A calf by the door
  12. 7:19Sheepskin, lapti and foot wraps
  13. 7:59No coming down from the stove
  14. 8:36Nights by the luchina
  15. 9:14Who slept on top?
  16. 10:00Washing and sweating in the oven
  17. 10:37The cure for almost everything
  18. 11:21A quiet birth
  19. 11:53Another izba, another stove
  20. 12:29Why up on the stove
  21. 13:21What remains
  22. 13:51How they managed in Kostroma

Sources

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